A TASTE OF HOME

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By Lydia Wong

I remember that night when most of my family accompanied me to the airport in Hong Kong. We had a late-night snack at a restaurant there before my flight to London. My sister Karen ordered me some food she thought I would miss the most. We had my favourite: wok-fried flat rice noodles with tender beef sirloin filets, beansprouts and soy sauce, and silky egg omelette stuffed between two pieces of crust-less, pillow-y white bread, cut into triangles. I was so excited, but also really sad that I was about to leave my family for the first time. I don’t quite recall what our conversations were about, perhaps how much I would be missed, how lucky I was to be able to study abroad and how I should do my best. I am quite certain we talked about how to look after myself, especially in the cold English winter.

Up until then, I had never been to anywhere outside of China and now I was moving to London with no idea whatsoever what the adventure would entail. All I had with me that day was one suitcase, the equivalent of 600 Euro (which I saved up over a period of two years), a British Airways one-way ticket and a million butterflies in my stomach. I am still surprised how brave I was!

I walked out of the restaurant alone toward the boarding gate to avert a tearful goodbye. I entered the plane, trying to avoid eye contact with my fellow passengers. I settled into my seat by the window and closed my eyes, tears rolling down my cheeks like morning dew. Little did I know then that it was the beginning of a journey that would change my life forever.

Lydia 1995

At that time, my plan was to study in university in the hopes of better career prospects when I returned to Macau after a few years. But I fell in love with London pretty much straight away and it became my home for the next fourteen years. London was amazing: the cityscape, architecture, people and the vibrant energy. It was so different from Macau – exciting, unique and multicultural. I felt at ease living there as a foreigner. I met new people everyday and I learned about their cultures, and their food.

Food has always been, for me, a way of understanding other people and places. In Macau food is one of the most important elements in life. In this small peninsula by the Pearl River Delta in southeast China, we greet each other by asking ‘have you eaten yet?’ instead of ‘how are you?’  On special occasions such as Chinese New Year, or a celebration of a new birth, we always give each other a gift of food. As the former Portuguese colony, Macau has developed its own cuisine – Macanese. It is an ‘East-meets-West’ combination of Portuguese and Chinese ingredients and cooking methods (this is why I later called my food blog Ginger & Chorizo). My father loved Macanese food, grilled chorizo and poached bacalhau were his favorites. The smell of olive oil is part of my childhood memories. Having thrived in the mèlange of two very different cultures, I developed a belief that people and food culture are inseparable.

I remember my first Turkish kebab in London Islington, crispy sliced meat stuffed inside a Turkish flat bread with lots of fresh salad, herbs and yogurt, all served up by a bald, cheerful man. This delicious pocket was definitely not my last and kebabs became one of my favourite late-night snacks after a night out! The classic fish and chips in Covent Garden, tender fish filets coated with light crispy batter served with husky potato chips and tartar sauce. It was humble and comforting food, but still exciting for me, a reflection of my feelings for London.

When I was homesick though, I would often go to London’s Chinatown; and eating my favourite Chinese food became a remedy for me. I learned that one of the most popular dishes in Chinatown was ‘Sweet and Sour Pork’. Even its name would bring me back to the small white-tiled kitchen at home in Macau. I can still vividly remember my mother working skilfully with her steel spatula, plating up those crispy cubes of pork and sweet pineapples coated with sticky orange sauce, the day when I learned how to cook ‘Sweet and Sour Pork’ for the first time.

London was also the place where I met Alexander, my now husband, who had great curiosity for my food-loving nature. Since we are both food lovers, we embarked on many delicious journeys together through London. Its ever-changing food scenes and its dynamic spirit enchanted us; we fell madly in love with London, and with each other.

When Alexander relocated his job, we left our beloved city with our ten-month-old baby and moved to Berlin. I started to spend a lot of time in the kitchen and cooked the food that I missed the most, the food that I grew up with and the food that I learned to love living in London.

And Berlin? I love Berlin too, and it has been my home for the last 6 years. It has an amazing food culture, which gave me endless possibilities for working with food in a much more creative way. With my food blog, I record what I cook and recipes from my mother and ones that are inspired from the international food scenes in London.

Now I want to introduce the food I love to my daughter, not only to pass on my family traditions and recipes to her, but for her to understand the food cultures from different countries that have influenced and shaped my life. She is already a gourmet and I am very proud that she can taste what spices I put into a dish. Sometimes she will even do a flavour pairing for me! It is a great comfort to me that she has learnt to appreciate and love food at a young age. I hope one day, she will be reading my blog and cooking her grandmother’s recipes and feeling at home wherever she is.

Lydia Wong is a food writer and interior designer. She is from Macau, southeast China and lived for many years in London.  She now lives in Berlin with her husband and daughter. You can follow her recipes and food stories on her blog: https://gingerandchorizo.wordpress.com/

SERVES 4

SWEET AND SOUR PORK WITH PINEAPPLE RECIPE

Ingredients:

  • 500g pork neck filets (or pork belly) cut into bite size pieces
  • 1 cup freshly cut pineapple (or from a can)
  • 1 red bell pepper, cut into bite size pieces
  • 1 green bell pepper, cut into bite size pieces
  • 1 small onion, cut into bite size pieces
  • 1 cup (plus more) corn starch
  • 1 egg, beaten
  • 2 cups vegetable oil for deep frying, plus 1 tbsp. for the vegetables
  • Jasmine rice for serving

For the pork marinade:

  • 1 tsp. white pepper
  • large pinch of salt
  • 2 tbsp. Shaoxing rice wine
  • 2 tbsp. tamari (or regular soy sauce)

For the sweet and sour sauce:

  • 6 tbsp. rice vinegar
  • 6 tbsp. ketchup
  • 2 tsp. sugar
  • 2 tbsp. lemon juice
  • 2 tbsp. water

Method:

Combine the pork pieces with the marinade ingredients. Set aside for at least 30 minutes or keep in the fridge overnight.

Prepare the sauce by combining the ingredients in a bowl, have a little taste, it should have a balance sweet and sour taste to it, adjust the seasoning if needed, set aside.

Heat about 2 cups of vegetable oil in a heavy bottomed sauce pan or wok. Add the beaten egg into the marinated pork, mix well. Coat the pork pieces one by one in cornstarch, shake off the excess flour and slide the pork pieces carefully into the hot oil (to test if the oil is ready, just drop a little drop of egg or flour in, it sizzles and floats to the surface when the oil is hot enough), fry for about two minutes or until the pork is cooked through. Remove the pork and drain on a cooling rack lined with kitchen paper. Repeat until all the pork is cooked. Do not over-crowd the wok, do it in batch)

Transfer the oil into a glass jar and use a piece of kitchen paper to wipe off the excess oil. Warm 1 tablespoon of vegetable oil in the wok (or another non-stick pan), add the onion, bell peppers and a pinch of salt, fry for a minutes, then add the pork, pineapples and the sweet and sour sauce, quickly stir-fry until everything is coated with the sauce. Transfer them to a warm serving platter, served immediately with steamy Jasmine rice.